KANSAS CITY, MO — While taste is arguably the most important factor for the customers lining up behind bakery cases, there is certainly an appreciation for the beauty that graces each loaf of artisan bread.
At Noga Bread Co., a rustic sourdough bakery located in Gardena, CA, creating one-of-a-kind bread means paying special attention to not only the function of the bread but also its appearance.
This is because bread scoring — though often a technical necessity — is truly an art form in itself, recognized for its ability to elevate the look of any loaf while simultaneously providing the proper ventilation needed for the perfect texture.
So, like any other form of art, there are many elements that affect the finished masterpiece. Things like depth, tools and bread type can make all the difference.
Scoring counts
Lee Begim, classically trained chef and co-owner of Noga, noted the variables new bakers don’t typically consider, such as the type of yeast used.
“If you use a commercial yeast, more often than not, your scores are going to turn out beautifully,” he said. “In my experience, it’s consistent in its results. Someone with the most minimal experience will still be able to achieve a really nice score.”
But, when it comes to different bread varieties, such as sourdough, things can get a little tricky. Different types of breads lend themselves to different scores, and those looking to build their scoring skills will quickly realize how many variables truly affect the final product.
Since sourdough’s unpredictability often contrasts with commercial yeast’s consistency, it’s important for a baker to really know their stuff before trying to master this rebellious bread.
“With sourdough … the fermentation, the development, all of that will play into how your score comes out,” Lee added.
The depth of scoring depends on fermentation, with over-fermented loaves requiring shallow scores and under-fermented loaves needing to go a little deeper. Even the shape of the bread itself should be considered when going in for the slash. For example, batards typically require a single or double slash, while large square scores are better suited for boules.
Innovative flavor inclusions, while delicious and on trend, also have an impact on the quality of the score, so bakers may want to start slow and try not to get too ambitious when it comes to packing the dough. At Noga, where its focus lies on seasonal ingredients and Middle Eastern flair, finding the sweet spot with bakery inclusions is essential.
“I think a rule of thumb is the weight of your dough should be about 25 to 30 percent inclusions,” he said. “That gives it a good, even distribution. Some people like to really load it up, but if you have a loaf with 50 percent inclusions, it has a little bit less room to expand, so I always keep that in mind.”
The tools used to score are just as important as the dough, and it can be hard to know which type to use with each loaf.
“For overall scoring, you should always use a razor blade,” Lee said. “It just has the right strength that can cut through dough, but there are a few different kinds to choose from. The one I use is just a standard, handheld blade for easy scoring, but a lot of people who like to do the artistic scores will use a Wire Monkey lame.”
A bread lame typically results in a cleaner, more controlled cut compared to a razor blade, which is why Lee emphasizes its usage for artisan-style breads that deserve a bit of panache.
“Bread lames are a lot easier on the wrist and much better for decorative scoring, which is usually done with less hydrated dough,” he said. “Because when a dough is super hydrated, it’s a little bit harder to work with, because the score kind of catches onto the dough. When a dough is drier, you can really take your time and do these really pretty intricate designs.”
Though most bakers have surely scored their fair share of bread loaves, it’s never too late to learn the technical aspects behind how to deliver the perfect result. The intricacy of scoring, coupled with new creative twists on the craft, will only grow the love and understanding of what it takes to bake the best artisan bread.
For a full, in-depth bread scoring demo, check out Craft to Crumb’s exclusive CMB Study Hall series.
